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Say Ahhh…Part 2 – Worms and Deworming

Say Ahhh…Part 2 – Worms and Deworming

Zimecterin Gold Dewormer

Hold on to your pocket protectors – we’re going to get a little scientific here.

When we first got Valentine, one of the most important first tasks we had to do was deworm him (Say “Ahhh?”). This truly is an important part of horse maintenance and should be done on a regular basis (usually every eight weeks, depending on where you live and other factors). Even the most cavalier horse owners I’ve met do not fail to deworm their horses.

We use Zimecterin Gold because it was the broadest antiparasitic we found. It contains 1.55% ivermectin and 7.75% praziquantel. They advertise that it kills roundworms, tapeworms, bots and “the arterial stages of S. vulgaris.” There are lots of different brands out there. I live in a small town and am new to the whole horse thing, but all of the dewormers I’ve seen have the same active ingredients: Ivermectin or ivermectin with praziquantel. But what are ivermectin and praziquantel? And why do we need to use them?

Ivermectin is an anthelmintic that kills a broad spectrum of nematodes by causing muscle paralysis in parasites. That’s what the Internet says. Nematodes are roundworms; I had to look up “anthelmintic.” I think just about anyone would have. According to Wikipedia, anthelmintics are “drugs that expel parasitic worms (helminths) from the body, by either killing or stunning them.” I didn’t look up helminths. I just assumed that it means “parasitic worms.” You can look it up if you want.

Praziquantel is an antiparasitic. It kills tapeworms, which ivermectin does not.

A side note on ivermectin: there has been a lot of talk recently, especially on the Web, about fatalities in horses given various brands of dewormers containing ivermectin. It appears that these are rumors started in emails and have very little foundation in truth. Occasionally a horse will die after being administered a dewormer. Some of these are overdoses – these are usually foals because ivermectin is very well tolerated in most animals, even at higher doses. Some are animals that have a sensitivity to ivermectin. The most likely cause for a dewormer fatality, strangely enough, is when a horse really needs deworming, because he hasn’t been treated in a while. If the horse has a very large population of parasites and they are suddenly all killed off, the toxins released by the dead parasites can kill the horse. (So if you have a horse whose deworming schedule you’re not sure of, please check with your vet before administering any dewormer.) As far as the ivermectin rumors go, the best advice I’ve heard is to check with a reliable source. Ask your vet – he or she should be up-to-date on any recalls or such if there are any. You can even call the company that manufactures the dewormer directly. But please, please, do not skip treatment to avoid potential dangers from medication. The chances of your horse getting a bad dose of medication are very slim. The chances of your horse being infected with potentially dangerous parasites is close to 100%.

The parasites which you are trying to prevent live their life in a cycle between pasture, horse, and manure. The eggs lay around in the grass in your pasture (or the pasture of the hay supplier you buy from). They are eaten by the horse with the grass or hay. They hatch into larvae, go on holiday in various parts of your horse’s anatomy, mature into nasty, sometimes very large and numerous, worms, and lay eggs in your horse which are passed through into the manure, which ends up in your pasture, starting the cycle again.

Roundworms are a very common equine parasite, and some studies suggest that all horses are infected with these worms. Like most parasites, they take up residence in the intestinal tract, and roundworm infection can cause symptoms from chronic weight loss to severe diarrhea. Like all the parasites we will be discussing, untreated roundworm infection can even cause death. An interesting fact about roundworms is that part of their life cycle is to burrow into the intestinal wall, where they can live in a dormant state for months or even years. That is another reason why a consistent deworming program is vital to your horse.

Tapeworms are, as the name suggests, a long, flat worm. When this worm infects a horse, it does so in large numbers at the junction of the small and large intestine (known as the ileocaecal junction). Here, this giant mass of worms can cause all kinds of havoc, including bowel irritation, twisting of the intestine, or even rupture of the intestine. A large percentage of colic is caused by this parasite.

Bots are not tiny little androids. They are also not worms. “Bot” is actually short for “botfly,” a large, bee-sized fly. This fly, like other flies, congregates on your poor horse, driving him crazy. They also lay their eggs on the horse. Since the horse is bothered by the flies on him, he will lick or bite at them, thereby bringing the bot eggs into his mouth. Then – and this is really gross – the eggs hatch into larvae, which burrow into your horse’s lips, gums and tongue. This apparently doesn’t bother the horse (just the humans), but then the larvae migrate into the horse’s stomach, which does cause problems, ranging from stomach upset to a perforation of the stomach, which can cause death. I knew I hated those darn flies.

S. vulgaris is the short name for Strongylus vulgaris, a scientific name for a group of parasites that also include Strongylus equinus and Strongylus edentus. The common names for these parasites are large strongyles or bloodworms. All three of these parasites enter your horse in the same way – they lurk in your pasture in the larval form and are ingested by your grazing horse. Once inside the horse, the larvae travel through the horse to their favorite spots: for S. equinus and S. edentus, that is the liver. For S. vulgaris, it’s the intestinal cavity. Of the three, S. vulgaris is the most dangerous. While the other two can cause significant damage to the liver, S. vulgaris causes far-ranging damage. Their ultimate goal, the large intestine, can, of course, be severely affected by the residence of these parasites – they bite off pieces of the intestine, which can cause gastrointestinal problems such as diarrhea and the bane of all horse owners, colic. It can also cause anemia from blood loss. (By the way, none of my sources mentioned this, but it probably causes pain or at least discomfort for the poor horse too.) However, the scariest and most serious effect of these parasites is the fact that they cause damage to the arteries as they are traveling to their destination. It takes about two weeks for the larvae to get from the mouth to the mesenteric artery, which is the main artery that feeds the intestinal tract. After about 4 months in that location, in which time the larvae grow into the adult worm, they travel to the large intestine, where they feed and lay their eggs. While they are traveling around in the arteries, they leave marks on the walls of the arteries, which can lead to blood clots. Blood clots are as bad in horses as they are in humans – when they break loose, they can cause serious debilitation or even death.

So be sure to deworm your horse. Which leads to the next big question: how? As you may remember, when we were first faced with the task of deworming our brand-new horse, we chickened out and went with on-feed dewormer. This may work for you, but it didn’t for us – Valentine likes to swish his feed onto the ground, and since the dewormer is a powder, he probably didn’t get as much of it as he should have. On our next try, we used the Zimecterin Gold paste. First, we asked a couple of people how to get the syringe into the horse’s throat. Boy, did they laugh! It turns out that there is no need to get it all the way back there. Have you inspected your horse’s mouth at all? (I hope you have – there’s important information in there, and not just his age.) You’ll note that there is a large gap between the front teeth and the back – that’s where the bit lies when your horse is bridled and ready to ride. Just stick the syringe in there, back as far as it will go (not out the other side, please) and squirt away. We’re told that the horse cannot spit it out. He can drip it out a bit, though, so step back. We tried to offer Valentine some apple after this, to appease him and to help get the paste into the tummy, but he wasn’t having any of that. He seemed miffed.

For the best information on deworming – what, when, how – please ask your local veterinarian.

Strongyle information was taken, in part, from Animal World Network.

Barn Snakes – Everyone Should Have One

Barn Snakes – Everyone Should Have One

Photo by Bradley Brister on Unsplash

Our chicken snake - WillyOn the EWWW! scale (ha ha), this one is way up there.

So, one of our sudden thunderstorms was brewing and since our horses think they will melt in the rain, I went up to the barn to let them in. By the time I got there, it was really coming down – a real gullywasher, as we call it in the desert, or as they call it here, a frog strangler. Since we had put off cleaning out the stalls until right before bedtime, as usual, it wasn’t done. I decided to let them in anyway, since it wasn’t too bad in there and I figured they’d rather be in a dirty stall than out in a downpour. So I opened the mare’s stall and the gate, and she came on in but veered off to the hay. Fine. I let him into his stall with no problem and turned my attention back to the mare. She would not go into her stall. Then I noticed a pile of poo right in the entryway. “How on earth did she get that there?” I wondered, peering at it closely. Then suddenly the pile of poo uncoiled and slithered across her stall, under the wall into the adjoining stall (not Valentine’s, thank goodness, or we’d still be repairing it). Ew, ew, ew!!! Of course, the mare agreed with me, and still wouldn’t go in there. I finally ended up cleaning out the stall and coaxing her in with food. She very reluctantly entered. Between the thunderstorm and the serpent, she was a bit twitchy.

Then I tried to find the snake. It was nowhere to be found. Well, out of sight, out of mind, right? It was still raining to beat the band, but the horses needed water too, so I ran out into the rain, around the side of the barn where their windows are and the buckets are hung…and stopped short. There, on the barn “veranda,” all stretched out watching the rainstorm, was our snake. Ew, ew, ew again!! He didn’t seem to notice me so I took a good look, so I could research the thing and find out what kind of snake he was. He was black and grey and knobby, very thin, and did not have a “viper” head. So I tapped his tail with my shoe and he slithered under a nearby woodpile. I then, very quickly and keeping a close eye on said woodpile, filled the buckets and ran back to the house.

That evening we had a church supper, so we asked our preacher and the gentleman he was talking to about our snake. We were assured that he is a harmless chicken snake and we should let him be because he’ll eat vermin. (I personally think he’s vermin too, but whatever.) We could have accepted this if Mr. Watson hadn’t gone on to tell us tales of 7-foot long chicken snakes, and snakes in beds, and other bone-tingling snake stories. When we got home, I did some internet research and discovered that what the people around here call a chicken snake is actually a rat snake, and can indeed reach the 7-foot mark. Here’s what our barn visitor looks like:

The Common Rat Snake

We call him Willy, because he gives us the willies. Bill thought a silly name would make the snake less scary.

A week after the first and only sighting, and with silly name dispensed, Bill can still barely set foot in the barn.

Death to Flies!

Death to Flies!

No to flies!
Fly photo by Manlake Gabriel on Unsplash

Time for a report on fly control. First, a little history.

When we first got Valentine, it was the dead of winter. It was very cold, and we were very new to all aspects of horsekeeping, including manure management. We didn’t have a clue what to do with the poo he filled his stall with every day. So, what we did was…and I’m embarrassed to admit this…chuck the manure over the wall of Valentine’s stall into the stall next to his. It was meant to be temporary until we figured out what to do with it long-term. We don’t do that anymore – but there’s still a pretty big pile in the vacant stall. The thing is, we have a really nice trailer to load it up in and take it out to the pasture. But we had to disassemble that trailer to get it onto the other trailer to move it out here (Bill has a “thing” for trailers). And we haven’t found the bolts to put it back together again. So it sits in pieces next to the barn and the pile of manure sits in the vacant stall awaiting the assembly of the trailer. It’s a sad, sad cycle.

Anyway…so knowing that there would be a lot of fly attractant sitting around the barn (and by the way, we are moving it out a wheelbarrow at a time, but it takes a while), we knew we’d have to be pretty aggressive with fly control. We decided on a multi-faceted approach:

Feed-through fly control. As the name implies, this is a supplement that you add to their feed. There are several different kinds. Solitude IGR, EquiTrol, SimpliFly and similar products contain a horse-safe chemical that is passed through the intestinal tract into the manure where flies lay their eggs, preventing the formation of the larvae’s exoskeleton when they molt (gross, huh – but they are FLIES). There are also a few herbal-type supplements that are supposed to make your horse unappealing to biting insects, such as Inside-Out. (I’m thinking of trying one of those myself, I’m entirely too tasty to mosquitoes and such.) We chose a formulation offered by a local feed store. It’s of the first variety, the exoskeleton knocker-outer. We add 1 teaspoon to their food every night, and they don’t complain. We’ve been feeding it to Valentine for about two months now with no problems.

Fly Parasites. It sounds strange, but we bought bugs to eat other bugs. Not only that, but these fly parasites look like tiny little flies themselves. But instead of harassing your horse (and you), they eat fly pupae. Yummy! We ordered them by mail through Arbico Organics (there are several companies that sell these). They send a batch of Fly Eliminators once a month. The first batch we got was already hatching; the new batch we got last week isn’t hatching yet, but once the bugs start hatching, you open up the bag they’re in, distribute them at dusk around places where flies might want to lay eggs, and let them go to town. We see no flies around our giant manure pile, so I tend to think they are working quite well.

Spot-On Fly Control. If you have dogs, you’ve probably used a product like this to repel ticks and fleas. It comes in a little tube that you squeeze on your pet from neck to tail. For dogs, it comes in a 1 ml tube; for horses, 10 ml. We use Equispot. You squeeze one ml on the poll, one ml on the back of each leg, then the remaining 5 ml along the back from ear to the top of the tail. Frankly, I’m not impressed with this product – the flies don’t seem to be deterred from any of these areas at all, and still congregate around their eyes. But I haven’t stopped using it to see if it will make a difference, either.

Fly Sprays. We started using a fly spray to supplement the Equispot about a week ago. There was a lot of stamping going on – the horses were frequently stamping the ground to shake flies off, and this can actually cause injury to the horse – so we spray their legs with Bronco Fly Spray before they go out in the morning. The first day, we tried to do it after they were already out in the pasture. I don’t recommend that, because they’re not fond of being sprayed with anything, and it’s a lot harder to aim the spray when they’re moving out in the open than when they’re in a 12’x12′ stall.

Wound Care. Flies are unfortunately attracted to open wounds. Your horse is going to get owies, and you, of course, don’t want to spray a strong insecticide on an open wound – that would really sting. There are fly repellants especially formulated for open wounds. Since they’re “gentle,” they’re also good for, ahem, sensitive areas. Our poor horses were being eaten alive on their bellies, so I posted a message on Horse City’s forum asking for advice. I was told to use SWAT ointment. It is also working very well.

There are other options as well: good old-fashioned fly strips, bug zappers, and fly masks. We haven’t tried any of these yet, but we may in the future. In the meantime, we’ll continue our current methods of fly mass murder.

Death to all flies!

Watch Your Head!

Watch Your Head!

Funny face

After being stepped on a couple of times, it appears that I’m paying too much attention to the horses’ feet and not enough to their heads. The other day, we were doing our usual carefully choreographed routine to get both horses out of the nice, comfy barn out to the wide-open pasture. Now, the horses like being in the pasture (as long as it’s not raining, that is), but for some reason, they don’t like to go out there. It probably has something to do with the gooey, murky swamp of mud they have to cross to get there. So we have various tricks to maneuver them out there.

I have to say here that the RIGHT way to accomplish this is to halter each horse, lead them out to the pasture, stop them with a firm command, remove the halter, then walk away. The horse should not lead you out there, and should not walk away before you do. We have done it this way many, many times. However, unless we want to walk across the gooey, mucky mud-swamp, we have to take the horses out through the back of the barn, across our lawn and out through a different, drier gate. So every day, we have a choice: bring the keys, get each halter out of the tack room, halter each horse, negotiate a stall door and barn gate, drag said horse across the broad expanse of luscious, green grass, negotiate another, smaller gate, and release them in the pasture; or, just open a stall door and a barn gate and coax each horse out. We usually choose the lazier of the options. But do as we say, not as we do.

Anyway, this particular day Bill walked out to the pasture (through the “dry” gate) to lure the horses out there, while I managed the stall doors, one by one. We got the mare out (we still haven’t agreed on a barn name for her) without too much trouble, but Valentine had other ideas. Their stalls are on the west side of the barn, and his is closest to the gate. The hay is on the east side of the barn, diagonally from his stall. That’s where he wanted to be, and I was between the two. Now, he could have forced the issue – being twice my height and, we’ll say, 10 times my weight. But, lucky for me, he does respect me. However, in his search for a way past me rather than over or through me, he turned his head rather abruptly and completely clocked me upside the head. I gotta tell you, that HURT. I don’t remember any stars, but I swear I felt something shift up in there. I got a very noticeable lump on my left temple and any pressure in a 6-square-inch area up there was extremely painful for a couple of days. In fact, it’s been 6 days since it happened, and it still hurts to touch. (I know, I know, don’t touch it, then.)

So watch out for the top AND bottom of the horse. At the same time.

A Public Apology to My Horse

A Public Apology to My Horse

Something has been weighing on my conscience. I have unjustly accused my horse of clumsiness several times. Okay, the accusations weren’t all unjustified, but one of them was – when I hinted that he had fallen on his side and been plastered with mud. The truth is…he did it on purpose. I know this because our black horses often come back from the pasture as brown horses:

My black...er...brown horse

I also know this because we’ve seen them doing it, and it’s hysterical!

Horses rolling

Maybe horses are a little bit like big dogs!

Okay, I feel better now. Sorry, Valentine.

Never Say Never

Never Say Never

Mr. Hand

Okay, remember back in February when I brought up sheath cleaning and proclaimed it was never gonna happen? (And You Thought Victoria’s Secret Was Racy?) Well, after further research, I now think it’s gonna have to happen. Luckily, I have found some expert guidance. Try not to spray sweet tea out your nose:

Mr. Hand

  1. Check to make sure there are no prospective boyfriends, elderly neighbors, or Brownie troops with a line of sight to the proceedings. Though of course, they’re going to show up unexpectedly ANYWAY once you’re in the middle of things. Prepare a good explanation.
  2. Trim your fingernails short. Assemble horse, hose, and your sense of humor (plus, ideally, Excalibur cleanser and perhaps thin rubber gloves).
  3. Use hose (or damp sponge) to get the sheath and its inhabitant wet. Uh, that is, do this in a “civilized” fashion with due warning to the horse; he is apt to take offense if an icy-cold hose blasts unexpectedly into his personal regions.
  4. Now introduce your horse to Mr. Hand. What I find safest is to stand facing the horse’s head, with my shoulder and hip snugly against the horse’s thigh and hip so that if he makes any suspicious move such as raising his leg, I can feel it right away and am in any case pressed so close that all he can do is shove, not really kick. The horse should be held by an assistant or by your free hand, not tied fast to a post or in crossties. He may shift around a good bit if he’s not happy with Mr. Hand’s antics, but don’t be put off by that; as long as you are patient and gradual, and stick close to his side, he’ll get over it. Remember it would be most unladylike of you to simply make a direct grab for your horse’s part. Give the horse a clue about what’s on the program. Rest your hand against his belly, and then slide it back till you are entering the Home of the Actual Private Part. When you reach this first region of your destination, lube him up good with Excalibur or whatever you are using.
  5. If the outer part of his sheath is really grungy you will feel little clods and nubblies of smegma peeling off as you grope around in there. Patiently and gently expedite their removal. Thus far, you have probably only been in the outer part of the sheath. The Part itself, you’ll notice, is strangely absent. That’s because it has shyly retired to its inner chambers. Roll up your sleeves and follow in after it.
  6. As you and Mr. Hand wend your way deeper into the sheath, you will encounter what feels like a small portal that opens up into a chamber beyond. Being attentive to your horse’s reaction, invite yourself in. You are now in the Inner Sanctum of the Actual Private Part. It’s hiding in there, towards the back, trying to pretend it isn’t there. Say hi, and wave to it. No, really, work your finger back and forth around the sides of it. If the horse won’t drop, this is your only shot at removing whatever dried smegma is clinging to the surface of the Part itself. So, gently explore around it, pulling out whatever crusty topsoil you find there. Use more water and more Excalibur if necessary to loosen attached gunk.
  7. When Mr. Hand and the Actual Private Part have gotten to know each other pretty well, and the Part feels squeaky clean all around, there remains only one task: checking for and removing the bean. The bean is a pale, kidney-shaped accumulation of smegma in a small pouch just inside the urethra. Not all horses accumulate a bean, but IME [in my experience] the majority do, even if they have no visible external smegma. So: the equine urethra is fairly large in diameter, and will indeed permit you to very gently insinuate one of your slimmer fingers inside the urethral opening. Do so, and explore upwards for what will feel like a lump or “pea” buried no more than, I dunno, perhaps 3/4″ in from the opening. If you do encounter a bean, gently and sympathetically persuade it out with your finger. This may require a little patience from both Mr. Hand AND the horse, but the horse will be happier and healthier once it’s accomplished. In the rare event that the bean is too enormous for your finger to coax out, you might try what I did (in desperation) last month on the orange horse. Wrap thumb and index finger around the end of the Part and squeeze firmly to extrude the bean. Much to my surprise it worked and the orange horse did NOT kill me for doing it and he does not seem to have suffered any permanent damage as a result. I have never in my life seen another bean that enormous, though.
  8. Now all that’s left to do is make a graceful exit and rinse the area very thoroughly in apology for the liberties you’ve taken. A hose will be MUCH easier to use here than a bucket and sponge, IME. Make sure to direct the water into the Part’s inner retreat too, not merely the outer part of the sheath. This may require you to enfold the end of the hose in your hand and guide it up there personally.
  9. Ta-Da, you are done! say “good horsey” and feed him lots of carrots. Watch him make lots of funny faces at the way your hands smell. Hhhmmm. Well, perhaps there is ONE more step…
  10. The only thing I know of that is at all effective in removing the lovely fragrance of smegma from your hands (fingernails, arms, elbows and wherever else it has gotten) is Excalibur. Even then, if you didn’t use gloves you may find you have an unusual personal perfume for a while. So, word to the wise, do NOT clean your horse’s sheath just before an important job interview or first date. And of course, there is the FINAL step…
  11. Figure out how to explain all this to your mother (or the kid next door, or the meter reader, or whoever else you’ve just realized has been standing in the barn doorway speechlessly watching the whole process.)

Now, go thou forth and clean the Part.

(Copyright 1998 Patricia Harris; please email pat_berto@yahoo.com for permission to reprint)

How bad can it be, really? For me, I mean.

These Boots Were Made for…Being Walked On

These Boots Were Made for…Being Walked On

Horse Boots

Something all the experts will tell you is that when you’re working around horses, you need to wear the right kind of shoes. Have you ever had your dog step on your feet? Well, guess what – your horse will do that too. And need I remind you, your horse weighs considerably more than a dog, and has really hard feet to boot? (ha ha) I can tell you from personal experience that it pays to have the right kind of shoes.

Until this weekend, I had been really lucky. I didn’t have any boots, but I always tried to wear sturdy shoes. Valentine swept over my feet a couple of times, but I was quick enough to get them out of harm’s way. Then last weekend, I finally got my boots, and I love them! They are Justin work boots – ugly but tough! Very comfortable too. (I got them at C&S Tack.) Valentine likes them too – he tasted them both thoroughly. Maybe they look like apples to him.

I can’t tell the rest of the story without spilling Bill’s big news, so I’ll have to tell you…he got his own horse! That’s all I’m going to say. You’ll have to wait for his post to hear all about Static’s Blue Moon. But anyway, I was leading Blue Moon out of her stall yesterday, and she stepped squarely on my foot. It stung, let me tell you, but I was wearing my boots and they held up great. Today, the same darn thing happened, on the same foot – and I was wearing tennies. Big no-no. And I know why, now. Unfortunately for me, she stepped on the little toe I broke last year. I sure hope I’ll be able to wear my boots tomorrow. Owie.

Serta or Tempurpedic?

Serta or Tempurpedic?

Handful of pellets

At some point – preferably before you get your horse, but at least soon after – you will have to decide what kind of bedding you want to use for your horse. Of course your horse’s comfort is an important consideration, but since, unlike your dog’s bed, this bedding won’t just be slept on – that’s right, horses are not “housebroken” – there are other considerations too, such as absorbency and siftability (is that a real word, or did I just make one up?).  When you greet your beautiful, elegant equine companion in the morning, you will see that he made a small project for you to work on that day. More likely, two or three projects. He probably even has some stuck to his face. Sweet.

There are several options for horse bedding, beginning with the base – the stall floor. Our barn floor is just plain old dirt, but some barns have permanent flooring. You can also put in rubber floors – we are looking into that. They are easier to keep clean than dirt, and more comfortable for your horse than dirt or cement.

On top of whatever kind of floor you have, you need the multi-purpose bedding. This should provide comfort for your horse and absorb whatever he may leave in there for you to muck out. There are basically three choices: straw, wood shavings, and wood pellets.

Straw is the classic barn bedding. Upsides: It’s cheap and easy. I think it’s pretty comfortable too – we used it at first, and Valentine never complained. Downsides: it’s not very absorbent, and it’s hard to sort the wheat from the chaff, so to speak…when you go for the poo, you get a lot of straw too.

We haven’t used wood shavings for Valentine, but we do use them for our goat, Joey. They work great for Joey, because he hardly ever uses his little house as an outhouse, so one pack of shavings lasts forever. Upsides: They smell great, and cedar shavings, at least, naturally repel fleas. Downsides: We didn’t try these because we decided they wouldn’t be cost-effective. You’d have to buy a lot to fill a stall, and replace the soiled bedding with new shavings at a pretty good clip.

We finally settled on wood pellets. There are several brands out there. When we were researching this topic, the brand we found was Woody Pet. They don’t sell this brand anywhere nearby, but we checked at our local feed stores and co-ops and found a similar product sold under different names, such as Equine Pine and Eagle Valley ABM Advanced Bedding Management. We also asked other horse owners and the people at the feed stores and co-ops, and the consensus seems to be that this stuff is the best thing since sliced bread. So we shoveled out all the straw and put in six bags of wood pellets…

Pouring bedding pellets
We emptied six bags of Equine Pine into the 12×12 horse stall.

…watered them down to fluff them up per instructions…

Fluffy bedding
After watering the pellets turned to almost a sawdust consistency.

…and presto! Soft, fluffy, absorbent and sweet-smelling bedding! Which equals a sweeter-smelling horse. If you love on your horse like I do, you’ll appreciate that.

Equally importantly, the stall cleans up faster and easier than ever before. The sawdust – which is what you end up with after you wet the pellets down – sifts right through the fork and all you’re shoveling out is poo. The urine soaks into the sawdust until the sawdust has reached maximum absorbing capacity, then it clumps together and you can shovel it right out. My big sweetie always pees in exactly the same place, so I just shovel that spot out every couple of days and add more.

Our Favorite Tack Shop

Our Favorite Tack Shop

C&S Western & Tack Shop

A great source of information is your local tack shop. Halfway between the town where we live and the closest “big city,” tucked off the highway where you would never know where it is except for a roadside sign, is the best little tack shop around: C&S Western & Tack Shop. They have EVERYTHING there – tack, barn stuff, shoeing supplies, grooming supplies, boots – you name it. And the owner, Charlie, really knows his stuff. He’s been a great source of information and advice for us. He knows just about everyone in the area, too, so he knows who to talk to if you need something he doesn’t have (like hay). There’s a bulletin board full of resources in the shop, too. Charlie is also one of the nicest people we’ve met in a place full of nice people, and he has the best stories. If you’re ever in Greenback, Tennessee, look them up!

That’s My Stud Muffin

That’s My Stud Muffin

Stud Muffins horse treats

Remember NickerMakers? Well, believe it or not, there’s a dumber name than that. I just got Valentine some horse treats called Stud Muffins. No joke. He LOVES them! They smell pretty good to me, but they look an awful lot like what I shovel out of his stall every morning, so I’m not tempted to try them. Yet.

In case you didn’t know, horses love to eat. It’s what they do all day. In fact, they are made that way – they are so big, and their diet is so low in calories, that they pretty much need to eat constantly. Valentine is no exception. For his regular diet, his favorite thing is oats, followed by fresh grass, followed by hay (since the grass started growing again, he’s not too keen on the hay). His favorite treats are apples, carrots, NickerMakers and Stud Muffins. My next experiment, treat-wise, will be homemade horse treats. I’m not making that up. I’ll post recipes here after the results are in.